The Cuts
At JKTS, we believe a blazer should fit the woman wearing it, not the other way around. That means rethinking one of the most persistent problems in womenswear: the assumption that your dress size tells us everything we need to know about how a garment should be built.
It doesn't. A size 14 woman may have the shoulders of a size 10. A size 16 woman is just as likely to be 5'3" as she is 5'8". Standard sizing ignores both of these realities, and it's why so many women find that a blazer fits beautifully across the body but pulls at the shoulders, or hangs perfectly on the torso but swamps the arms and back.
We've built JKTS around three cuts to solve this properly.
The Three Cuts Explained
Every JKTS blazer is made in three cuts: Narrow, Standard and Long. Your size number tells us your body proportions. Your cut tells us your shoulder width and your height. These are always chosen separately.
Narrow Cut
For women whose shoulders are narrower than standard grading assumes. The Narrow Cut reduces the cross-shoulder measurement by 1.5cm, with the armhole and sleeve head adjusted proportionally. All body measurements, bust, waist, hip- remain exactly the same as the Standard Cut in your size. This cut is available in both Standard and Long lengths.
Standard Cut
Our core block. The Standard Cut suits the majority of shoulder widths and is the starting point for all JKTS patterns. Available in Standard and Long lengths.
Long Cut
For taller frames. The Long Cut adds 3cm to the body length and 1.5cm to the sleeve. Shoulder width and all body girths are identical to the Standard Cut, only the vertical proportions change. The Long Cut is available in combination with either Narrow or Standard shoulder width. A size 16 woman may need the Long Cut; a size 10 woman may also need it. Height is never assumed from size.
How to Find Your Fit — Three Steps
You need three measurements: your body size (bust, waist or hip), your shoulder width (X-shoulder) and your height. That's it.
- Step 1 - Find your size number using your bust, waist or hip measurement in the table below.
- Step 2 - Choose your cut by measuring your X-shoulder (across the back, shoulder tip to shoulder tip). Under 39cm: Narrow Cut. 39cm and over: Standard Cut.
- Step 3 - Choose your length using your height. Under 165cm: Standard length. 165cm and over: consider the Long Cut.
Between sizes or cuts? Always size up and we can offer a bespoke service at check out.
Step 1: Find Your Size
These are body measurements - not garment measurements. Measure yourself and find the row where your measurements sit. If your bust and hip fall in different sizes, use whichever measurement is proportionally the largest.
Units:
| UK Size | EU Size | Bust | Waist | Hip |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 10 (EU 38) | 38 | 84–88 cm | 68–72 cm | 91–95 cm |
| 12 (EU 40) | 40 | 88–92 cm | 72–76 cm | 95–99 cm |
| 14 (EU 42) | 42 | 92–96 cm | 76–81 cm | 99–103 cm |
| 16 (EU 44) | 44 | 96–100 cm | 81–86 cm | 103–107 cm |
| 18 (EU 46) | 46 | 100–105 cm | 86–91 cm | 107–112 cm |
| 20 (EU 48) | 48 | 105–110 cm | 91–96 cm | 112–117 cm |
| 22 (EU 50) | 50 | 110–116 cm | 96–102 cm | 117–122 cm |
Step 2: Choose Your Cut (Shoulder Width)
Measure your X-shoulder: across the back from the tip of one shoulder to the other, following the natural curve of the upper back. This is the single measurement that determines whether you are a Narrow or Standard cut.
Find your size number in the table below, then compare your X-shoulder measurement to the two columns.
| UK Size | Narrow Cut: X-Shoulder | Standard Cut: X-Shoulder |
|---|---|---|
| 10 | 37.1 cm | 38.6 cm |
| 12 | 38.1 cm | 39.6 cm |
| 14 | 39.1 cm | 40.6 cm |
| 16 | 40.1 cm | 41.6 cm |
| 18 | 41.1 cm | 42.6 cm |
| 20 | 42.1 cm | 43.6 cm |
| 22 | 43.1 cm | 44.6 cm |
If your measurement is closer to the Narrow column or sits below the Narrow value choose the Narrow Cut.
If your measurement is closer to the Standard column choose the Standard Cut.
The difference between cuts is always 1.5cm / 0.6". If you fall exactly between the two, we recommend booking a fitting conversation before ordering and we can advise.
Step 3: Choose Your Length (Height)
Your height determines whether you need the Standard length or the Long Cut. This is entirely separate from your size number, we never assume that a larger size means a taller woman.
| Your height | Recommended length | What changes |
|---|---|---|
| Under 165 cm | Standard length | Our core length, designed for the majority of frames. |
| 165–171 cm | Standard length (try first) | You may find Standard fits well. If you prefer a slightly longer length sleeve or blazer we recommend doing the Long Cut. |
| 171 cm and over | Long Cut | This add +3cm body length, +1.5cm sleeve. All body girths and shoulder width unchanged. |
The Long Cut is available in combination with both Narrow and Standard shoulder widths. Your length and your cut are always chosen independently.
How to Take Your Measurements
Use a soft tape measure and stand naturally. If you do not have one, we can send you one for a small deposit. Link below.
Try not to adjusting your posture or holding your breath. Have someone else take the measurements where possible, particularly for X-shoulder and bust. Wear a well-fitting everyday bra.
Bust
Around the fullest part of your bust, tape level and parallel to the floor. The tape should be snug but not compressing.
Waist
At the narrowest point of your torso, usually 2–3cm above the navel. Bend gently to one side to find the natural crease. Do not pull the tape tight.
Hip
Around the fullest part of your hips and seat, approximately 20cm below your natural waist. Stand with feet together. Tape level and not twisted.
X-Shoulder
Across your back from the tip of one shoulder to the tip of the other, following the natural curve of the upper back. This is the key measurement for choosing Narrow or Standard cut, if possible, ask someone to take this one for you, as it is difficult to measure accurately alone.
Height
Stand barefoot with your heels together against a wall. Mark the top of your head and measure to the floor. This single measurement determines Standard or Long length.
Quick Reference: Cut and Length Combinations
Every JKTS blazer is made to one of these four combinations. You may find yours straight away from the steps above, or we can determine it together at your fitting conversation.
| Your profile | X-Shoulder | Height | Your combination |
|---|---|---|---|
| Narrow shoulders, average height | Under 39 cm | Under 171 cm | Narrow Cut, Standard length |
| Standard shoulders, average height | 39 cm and over | Under 171 cm | Standard Cut, Standard length |
| Standard shoulders, tall | 39 cm and over | 171 cm and over | Standard Cut, Long length |
| Narrow shoulders, tall | Under 39 cm | 165 cm and over | Narrow Cut, Long length |
Still not sure? Let's work it out together.
JIf you have any questions about sizing, or would like to book a fitting conversation ahead of placing your order, please get in touch.
